Sunscreen as we know it is a modern invention. For most of human history, people managed sun exposure without it, using timing and clothing, not chemistry.
Around the world in sun-intense regions, people learned to avoid peak midday sun and cover up. Think: siesta culture in the Mediterranean and Latin America, or agrarian work clustered in the early morning and evening. These practices evolved to avoid the heat, but the sun-protective effect was the same.
The American “sunscreen first” instinct is a relatively recent, product-driven shift.
The Regulatory Gap
The European Union has banned or restricted more than 1,300 chemicals in cosmetics. The United States has banned only 11. Yes you read that correctly – hundreds of chemicals that the EU bans, we are literally bathing in.
That same gap shows up in sunscreen. The European Union has approved 34 active ingredients for blocking UV rays. The United States has approved only 16.
The reason isn’t that European regulators are more vigilant or American regulators more careless. It comes down to classification.
The European Union treats sunscreen as a cosmetic, which is a faster-moving approval pathway. The United States treats sunscreen as a drug, thus subject to the same slow, rigorous pathway for new medications.
Since 2014, sunscreen manufacturers have asked the FDA to approve filters that have been used safely in Europe for years. Yet no new ones have been approved – not because the data is concerning, but because the approval pipeline can’t keep up.
Cleared by European Union standards is a reasonable bar to trust. Wouldn’t it be nice if we had access to more of those options here?
It’s Not Just the UV Filter
A sunscreen is rarely one ingredient.
For example: the word “fragrance” on a label can legally hide dozens of undisclosed chemicals. Preservatives like parabens can carry hormone disruption concerns.
Simple formulations with fewer ingredients mean less to worry about.
What About “Natural” Sunscreen Alternatives?
Coconut oil, shea butter, and tallow are all popular as potential alternatives to sunscreen. Unfortunately, they provide very little sun protection on their own because their SPF numbers are low (roughly 1-7) and largely reflect UVB burn delay, not UVA protection.
Even homemade recipes that include zinc oxide have been shown in controlled testing to underperform commercial sunscreen, likely because DIY formulations aren’t able to distribute or stabilize the mineral filter the way manufactured products do.
Sadly, no one is more disappointed by this than I am. As someone who’s had skin cancer, I want non-toxic, proven protection.
How to Check a Product Yourself
Checking a product is worth two minutes of your time.
EWG’s Skin Deep database (or the Healthy Living app) and Yuka are both free. Scan the barcode in the store aisle and get the score.
One thing to know before you rely on either: the overall score isn’t a simple average. One concerning ingredient can weigh heavily in the final rating. So don’t just glance at the score. Click through to see what’s behind it.
The Bottom Line
For your face specifically, mineral sunscreen (zinc oxide or titanium dioxide) is the simplest, safest choice. Don’t forget a hat during peak hours.
For the rest of your body, remember what we’ve learned throughout this series: get the amount of sun your skin needs, then cover up for the rest of the day or move into the shade until UV rays are lower again.
The oldest sun strategy is still one of the best.
So… to sun or not to sun?
Sun.
Just not the same amount, the same way, for everyone.
Know your skin type.
Know your window.
Go enjoy summer.
Your Move
Look up your current sunscreen using EWG’s Skin Deep database or the Yuka app this week.
If it’s a chemical sunscreen with a long ingredient list, consider switching to a mineral sunscreen made with zinc oxide or titanium dioxide.
Dr. Krista’s Picks
If you’re looking for a mineral sunscreen, here are two options I like:
All Good SPF 30 Mineral Facial Sunscreen
A lightweight mineral sunscreen that’s a great option for daily facial use.
All Good SPF 30 Tinted Mineral Sunscreen
A mineral sunscreen with iron oxides for additional visible light protection. Just be aware that the tint may transfer to light-colored clothing.
Warmly,
Dr. Krista
Olive Says
Wait. Should I be putting zinc oxide on my nose?
Not sure what a white nose would do to my brand…